January 12, 2009

Liziwe's Guest House in Guguletu

Guguletu. Just speaking the name of this township brings a smile to your face. As we entered the township, we saw a group of young men returning from the forest. They were in traditional dress. Their faces were painted a burnt orange. They were singing / chanting and even though I did not understand the words they sang, I could tell it was a joyous occasion.

Back in 1994 this township's name struck another emotional cord in the hearts of Americans when Anne Biel, an American exchange student, was murdered here. That was then, but now during our stay I found Guguletu township to be a very friendly hospitable and welcoming community.

We began our stay with a wonderful lunch at Liziwe's Guest House. We had dinner there as well. Not only was the food fabulous, but Liziwe's Guest House is quite lovely. There is this one room upstairs that I would have loved to have stayed in that had a balcony view of Table Mountain.

Andrew who works for Liziwe's Guest House took us around Guguletu advising us of this township's history. We went past the memorial set up to remember Anne Biel and he told us of the remarkable forgiveness and reconciliation story that occurred during TRC. How Anne's mother not only forgave those who had killed her daughter, but hired them to work for the foundation established in her daughter's memory.

We also went by the memorial of 7 young men killed during the struggle to be set free from Apartheid. As I looked at their dates of birth, I realized most of them would have been my age and it made me sad.

As we walked, everyone spoke to us or waved to us as we passed. Some stopped to talk to us. After dinner the majority of my group spent the night at Guest House Indlu Yabtyelei. I had my best sleep so far in South Africa in one of the rooms here. What I loved most about my stay here was the gathering we had prior to my going to bed. Community friends came by to talk to our group. It was like a big reception where we mingled around the room. We spoke of how to persons get health care coverage, politics and changes taking place. We shared our realities with one another. And what was most memorable about that evening was the songs, we heard traditional African songs, opera and we even had a surprise duet between a man from Guguletu and Professor Francis Adeney of Old Man River.

Overall, I loved my visit to Guguletu. I know some may find it strange to say, but I saw beauty in the midst of what many may see as extreme circumstances. I saw pride. I saw creativity. And I believe I made connection with a community full of hope.

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